Chicago: Sixteen - Autumn Menu

 Autumn Menu 2015

Food In Progress: Assessing an American Food Revolution

Canapes in seed box

Radishes in edible soil

Mackerel with pumpkin

Pumpkin gel, juice

The Harvest

Panna Cotta of Heirloom Corn and Ossetra Caviar

Shaved Root Vegetable, Pistachio, Hay Frost

Matsutake Mushroom, Green Apple and Cured Mackerel

Dashi broth used to cook the matsutake mushrooms

Whole Roasted Pumpkin with its Natural Juices

The Sea

Canning: A Study in Preservation

Lightly Cured Sea Trout and Roe, Arugula and Sea Lettuce

Bread pairing: Brioche buns with goat butter

Fish: A Rising Demand, a Rising Cost

Now a Global Demand and a Global Issue

Dover Sole with Chestnuts, Celeriac and Vin Jaune

Shellfish: A Bounty Lost, a Lesson Learned

The Cost of Demand, a Lesson Learned

Roast Lobster with Pine, Succulents and Nora Pepper Romesco

The Field

The Third Plate

Barley Porridge, Escargot, Mustard Greens and Juice

The Revival of Lost Varietals

Carolina Gold Rice Congee, Sorghum and Country Ham

The Ranch

Poultry: A Chicken in Every Pot

The Price of Abundance

Breast of Young Hen, Australian Black Truffle, Lemon Confit and Braised Leek

A Way Forward from the Ways of Our Past

Hen's Thigh and Oyster, Apricot Mostarda, Calabrian Chili and Parmesan

Beef: A Battle for the Center of the Plate

The Heart of the American Meal

Smoked Beef Rib, Rye, Pickled Cucumber, Shallot Puree and Wasabi-Infused Devonshire Cream

A Change in the Dinner Plate

Miso Roasted Eggplant, Caramelized Onion, Beef Tongue and Fried Garlic Roots

The Bounty

Earl Grey Tea Granite, African Blue Basil and Cherry Consomme

Stone fruit: Our Desire vs. Nature's Intent

Chocolate-Coconut Gateau, Pluot-Chili Jam,

Confit Chili and Coconut Marshmallow

Donut Peach Pie, Frangipane, Candied Almonds and Lemon Balm-Lychee Sorbet

Tea: Seeking What Was Lost

Matcha Genoise, Ricotta Cream and Raspberry Milk Jelly

Mint and Goat Cheese, Compressed Watermelon,

Domaine de Canton Tapioca and Brown Butter Streusel

Mignardises

Dining partner, Betty

This is a extra long post since my work colleague Betty, a fellow foodie, joined me for dinner. We were able to have everything on the tasting menu by picking opposite items. There were a few stand out dishes, particularly the "vegetable dish that tasted like a meat". We can all agree that any vegetable dish that can taste like meat is impressive. 

I was a little disappointed that the bread pairing was cut short to two servings (I forgot to take a photo of the second pairing). Sixteen served a pretzel roll and I think it should be a permanent pairing on every menu. In comparison, Atera in New York also serves a bread pairing AND offers multiple servings. I wasn't afraid to ask for more bread.

While the tasting menu was solid, I felt I had a better experience during the winter menu. The service was stiff this time around and the wait time for some the courses seemed off. Betty wasn't fond of the desserts and I agree. It wasn't cohesive or inventive with the theme of the meal. The matcha was definitely an afterthought and not the star of the dish.

Will I come back? I rarely come back to a restaurant more than twice but I will keep a close eye on any new developments at Sixteen. I think it has the potential to be a *** Michelin restaurant but the operations from the food and staff need to stay consistent.

Chicago: Blackbird

house bread, dill butter

beer vinegar, sunchoke, sorrel

carrot, dried scallop, licorice

honeydew, buttermilk, oxalis

stone fruit, marigold kale

smoke artic char roe, garden tomato

atlantic cod, gooseberries, pearl onion, lemon balm

nasturtium, branzino, palm, miso

dried duck, grape, popped corn

foie gras, frozen plum, charcoal salt

rohan duck, radish, sweet herbs

selected artisanal cheese

vodka, seeded dill flower

chamomile, english cucumber, sorrel ice

bourbon soaked peach, hazelnut brittle, sweet cream posset

additional dessert I can't remember what it was

What can I say about Blackbird without sounding like a jerk. The tasting was going well until I got to the popcorn dish. I've never asked to take a dish back nor leaving a full plate of food untouched. Maybe the chef ran out of chips and went with popcorn. Who knows! It was bad and I sucked it up and ate it. I think what drew the line for me was the foie gras dish. How can you fuck up foie gras. The culprit was too much charcoal salt. Way too salty for my taste and I can take salty dishes (e.g. popcorn dish a few minutes before). I would blame whoever plated that dish.

Popcorn, foie gras...FAIL

So what's next, duck. Now we're back to tasty dishes and none of this experimental bullshit. For a 1-star Michelin star restaurant, I do expect classic dishes and the occasional one off but NEVER a foie gras fail. I feel the one off was the vodka shot. As a palette cleanser, I think not.

Overall, I thought all of the dishes aside from the three mentioned above were solid. I was able to dine outdoors which was rare. The extra dessert which I can't remember it's description helped ease my earlier frustration. Would I go to Blackbird again? Definitely but I wouldn't do the tasting menu until a food critic like Phil Vettel has reviewed it.

I can hear it now, "You didn't like Blackbird....why would you say such a thing". I didn't say that, maybe I should have dined there before David Posey left.

Blackbird
619 W. Randolph St.
Chicago, IL 60661
312.715.0708
http://www.blackbirdrestaurant.com

What's Next: Chicago & New York

Next month I'm traveling back to Chicago and New York. Now that our landscaping projects are completed, I don't have to choose between Belgard pavers and a Michelin star meal.

For Chicago, I've booked Blackbird. I was hoping Band of Bohemia would open by September but it looks like it won't happen until October/November. I don't have many fancy dinner options in Chicago as I've already been to the ones worth dining at (e.g. Alinea, Grace, Sixteen, Next and the Girl & the Goat).

As for New York, I nabbed a seat at Atera. Although Executive Chef Ronny Emborg is relatively new to the U.S., his pedigree is impressive. Atera is a 2-star Michelin restaurant and the chef spent time at el Bulli and Mugaritz. His complete CV is located here. I'm also dining at Le Bernardin with some colleagues of mine. This work trip will keep my blog activity active for awhile.

Chicago: Sixteen - Tasting

Winter Menu 2015

Food in Progress

Modern Fine Dining: Moving Forward with Respect to the Past

Started off with a glass of NV Cattier 'Brut Antique' Premier Cru, Champagne, France

Snacks: In Search of "New": Cuisines: The Emergence of the Nordic

Buckwheat and rutabaga blini with peppered mackerel and radish

Marinated cuttlefish with beet, sea weeds, and trout roe

Smoked oyster,  potato gel, and horseadish

King crab with carrot, sea buckthorn, and dill

Amuse Bouche: The Remains of a Spanish Movement: Flavors Left From a Technical

Movement

Langoustine in its shell, chorizo, pine nut and citrus

First Course

Variations of onion, cipollini petals and caramelized jus with bacon, sourdough, and cultured butter

Bread and butter pairing: Ciabetta? with goat's milk butter

A Gift: The Humility of Broth: A Pursuit of the Purity of Flavor

Scallop in its shell with salt roasted kohlrabi and a scallop truffle dashi

Second Course: Mining Traditions: What is Old is New Again

Grilled lobster on rice with uni and coffee

Bread and butter pairing: Washington beer bread with cow's milk from Normandy

A Gift: Whole Animal Conservation: Nose to Tail Fine Dining

Bone marrow custard with cornered veal and flavors and gribiche

Deviled kidneys with parsley root and foam

Veal tongue blanquette

Black Truffle Pilsner

Main Course: A New Fusion: Forward Thinking with Respect for Tradition

Fallow venison with funnel, red fruits, farro, and butter milk with a hibiscus and current jus

Bread and butter pairing: Pretzel and goat milk

2nd service Venison cheek with fourchette sweet potato and green curry coco blanc

Formages

Quadrello di Butala, Pecorino Foglie DiNoce, Pecorino Ginepro, L'Amuse Brabander Goat Gouda

Transitions

Pineapple, celery, and mint granite

Mango, quark, and chocolate gateau

Papaya and guava spritzer

White chocolate and ginger namelaka with blood orange

Final Course

Chocolate cake with pecan, coconut, and kaffir lime

Mignardises

I don't say this too often but Sixteen is operating on a totally different level and it's a serious contender for a third Michelin star. I didn't have high expectations when arriving but at the end of the meal, I was literally speechless. One of the highlights of the meal wasn't even a course. It was...

BEER

Since I live in "Craft Beer Capital of America", my server was kind enough to give me a sample of a $120 bottle of beer, Moody Tongue's Black Truffle Pilsner.

It was amazing. I'm actually considering ordering this the next time I'm here.

The second highlight was the bread and butter paring. Normally, bread is served at the beginning of the meal and the butter is often overlooked. At Sixteen, the various cow and goat milk butters that were served complimented the bread paring perfectly. 

Overall, I feel the courses were aligned for a two-Michelin star establishment. What makes Chef Lents stand out in Chicago is he's creating his own lane. For example, when I dine at Alinea, I see elBulli. At Grace, I see Alinea. While their dishes are different, the influence is obvious. At Sixteen, I assume I will get the French Laundry or Joel Robuchon but I was completely wrong. The influences are from all over the place. This is refreshing because I feel that I won't experience the same courses season after season. It sort of forces you to want to come here every season to experience a total different menu. 

Will Sixteen ever get a third star? I think so. It's going to come down to service and decor. Of all of the 3-starred Michelin restaurants that I've been to around the world, most had great spaces with high-end furnishings and amazing interiors. I joke about this but a 3-star Michelin restaurant feels like you need a 781 credit score to walk into the door.

Sixteen

Trump International Hotel & Tower Chicago

401 N. Wabash Avenue

Chicago, IL 60611

312.588.8030

http://www.sixteenchicago.com/