Thursday, December 3, 2009

Chicago: Alinea - The Tour

#22: Chocolate - bacon, applewood, crabapple

Alinea, oh how I miss thee?

Enough to make a second trip to see you, even though its only been a few months (5 months to be exact). Although my trip was by chance, I could not pass you up. I had to diss another fine dining establishment to see you since you called me last minute to confirm. I maybe blacklisted from Trotter's forever but it was worth it to be with you once again.

xoxo,
Foodie Finder

If you haven't noticed, I have a love affair with Alinea. Enough where I had Marc email Nick Kokonas to ask for advice on how to land a reservation at Alinea. I know. I'm obsessed, so help me. You can find my 3-part series of my first trip here, here and here.

Anyways, it's true. I was not suppose to dine here. I was left on the waiting list since I booked my reservation about ten days short of a month before my dinner date. Basically if you don't call at least a month to two months out, you're not getting in. Period.

I must of had some major lucky stars on my side because three hours prior to opening, I got the call. I was on the road with my boss, Steve, driving back from Wisconsin to O'Hare (a two hour drive). At first I didn't recognize the number since it wasn't the main number from Alinea. I figured I'd call back once we get to O'Hare. A half an hour later, I check my voicemail and there it was, the call I never thought would happen and it did. A cancellation that lead to one open seat at Alinea.

WTF! I had already confirmed my dinner rezzy at Trotter's. What am I suppose to do? Like any insane person would do, call Alinea back and say, "I'll take it!".

So here we are again. It's Friday, the 13th of November and I take on "The Tour".

Last time I was there, my camera died halfway through the meal. This time, no more lame excuses. I brought my trusty dSLR with HD movie mode and a battery life to last me 850 shots. Plus, I brought my point-and-shoot camera fully charged, just in case. Equipment check...we're good to go.

Ok, enough of this background info. Let's get on with the food shall we.

Here is a copy of the Tour menu which consists of 23-courses. Nearly twice as many courses from my last dining experience. Click to enlarge.
To make the descriptions of the courses more interesting, I've paired them with their dish development write up from the Alinea Mosaic site (cool stuff!)

I was escorted upstairs to Table ?? (ok, I forgot). It wasn't my previous table which meant different lighting and atmosphere.

The centerpiece of the night, Rosemary.

Here are the infamous, utensils on white pillows.

#1: Osetra - traditional garnishes
Wine pairing: Cocktail of Hennot Brut Chartreuse, Akvavit and Orange Curacao

#2: Pork Belly - iceberg, cucumber, thai distillation (not pictured)
Wine Pairing: Abbazia di Novacella Kerner, Valle Isarco, Alto Adige 2008

#3: Yuba - shrimp, miso, togarashi

#4: Trout - monseigneur
Wine Pairing: Franz Hirtzberger 'Plurus' Grauburgunder Smaragd, Wachau 2000

Fall 2009 - Dish Development: Alinea Mosaic

#5: Black Truffle - explosion, romaine, parmesan

#6: Duck - chestnut, mace, orange
Wine pairing: Celier de l'Encastell 'Roquers de Porrera' Priorat, Spain 2000

Fall 2009 - Dish Development: Alinea Mosaic

#7: Kumquat - rye, lemon, demerara

Fall 2009 - Dish Development: Alinea Mosaic

#8: Bacon - butterscotch, apple, thyme

#9: Peanut Butter - dried and spicy

#10: Thai Banana - beer, mustard, pecans

Fall 2009 - Dish Development: Alinea Mosaic

#11: Octopus - green peanut, mint, dill
Wine pairing: Vecchio Sampen 'Ventennate, Marsala, Sicily

Fall 2009 - Dish Development: Alinea Mosaic

#12: Matsutake - pine, otoro, mango
Wine pairing: Vinosia Plano di Aveillino, Campanra, Italy 2006

Fall 2009 - Dish Development: Alinea Mosaic

#13 Pheasant - apple, shallot, burning leaves
Wine pairing: W.H. Smith 'Marimar Estate Vineyard' Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast 2006

#14: Hot Potato - cold potato, black truffle, butter

#15: Lamb - pumpkin, eggplant, rosemary aroma
Wine pairing: Schwarz Zweigelt, Burgenland, Austria 2006

#16: Concord Grape - maytag blue, toasted walnut

Fall 2009 - Dish Development: Alinea Mosaic

#17: Lemon Soda - one bite (no picture)

#18: Blackberry - goat milk, onion, lavender
Wine pairing: Ello Perrone 'Bigaro', Piernonte 2008

#19: Bubble Gum - long pepper, hibiscus, creme fraiche

#20: Transparency - of raspberry, yogurt

#21: Hay - burnt sugar, coffee, huckleberry
Wine pairing: Klein Constantia 'Vin de Constance, South Africa 2004

Fall 2009 - Dish Development: Alinea Mosaic

#22: Chocolate - bacon, applewood, crabapple
Wine pairing: Olivares Dulce Monastrell, Jumilla, Spain 2004

When you see this set up, you should know what's coming next - The Mat Plate (the concept can be best described from Pulling Back the Kitchen Curtain by Chef Grant Achatz). This time around, I was completely in shock/awe because Chef Grant Achatz plated this dish. It was pure luck that he was back in town from Spain the night I was dining at Alinea.

So what was the first thing that came out of my mouth when I saw him appear at my table?

"Didn't you just come back from Spain?"

His reply: "Yes. I got in this morning."

And he's right back in the kitchen. Wow, I guess creativity never sleeps. I have much respect for his craft.

#23: Pound Cake - strawberry, lemon, vanilla bean

I concluded the evening with a pot of hot green tea. Nothing special. It's called kochika (well, that's what it said on my receipt).

Afterthoughts: Great meal as always. I liked how they've started to post their dish developments on the Alinea Mosaic website. Although I had some repeats from my last trip, they were all classics and I'll never get tired of them. I was happy that the Tour still incorporated classics from previous seasons like Hot Potato. I didn't think I would ever get to try it.

I did notice that the number of courses in the Tour menu has decreased from 26 down to 23 and there wasn't bread service this time around. Maybe its a good thing. I didn't feel like I had to be rolled out in a wheelbarrel like my last visit.

I feel this second trip was a redemption from my last trip. All of my camera equipment was working, I conquered the Tour and I got to see the man itself. He even signed my menu after arriving from Spain the same day. Would I come back? Yes, of course. If I plan on coming here a few times a year, I may just have to stick with the Tasting menu. If it's every other year, then its the Tour all the way.

Things to know:
  • The menu is constantly evolving. If you've been here a few times (like me) and you've done at least one Tour, it doesn't hurt to stick with the Tasting menu if you plan on coming here a few times a year.
  • Price Range: $$$$. The 12-course Tasting menu is $150 and the 23-course Tour is $225.
  • Wine pairings are 2/3 of the cost of the menu. In my case, it cost me $138.
  • If you plan on doing the Tour with the wine pairing, take a cab.
  • Dress Code: Dressy, no jeans.
  • Want to know more on what's in dish development for the season? Take a look at their dish development section on their Alinea Mosaic website at: http://alineamosaic.com/forum/index.php?showforum=15
  • Alinea is one of the few restaurants that actually celebrates the holidays by - closing its doors. So no special turkey preps for Thanksgiving AND you can't spend Christmas here. This year, Alinea will be closed from Dec 21st until Dec 30th. They'll reopen on New Year's Eve.
  • Reservations: According to Nick Kokonas, he says "We are still months out on weekend reservations and 3 to 4 weeks on the rest." We say: Plan ahead.
1723 North Halsted
Chicago, Illinois 60614
312.867.0110

Monday, November 30, 2009

San Pedro: San Pedro Fish Market


The San Pedro Fish Market is located on the Port of Los Angeles and has been in operation for more than 30 years. The Fish Market is the place to go to for fresh fish in the Harbor area and offers retail and wholesale fish, ready-to-eat seafood fare and restaurant and banquet services.

A few years ago, Marc and I stumbled upon this place while we were exploring the area and have been coming back ever since. The Fish Market is known for its Shrimp Tray (shown above). What makes this place unique is the option to customize your seafood fare from their broad variety of fresh seafood.

This place has everything. From lobster tails and king crab legs to shrimp, clams and fresh fish.


Once you've decided what to order, you can add additional sides like vegetables & potatoes and garlic bread.

After that, your seafood and additions are cooked on the premise and served within a few minutes (a little longer if there are large crowds). The signature seasoning is a secret recipe that was developed over 20 years which put the Fish Market on the map.


Seating is located indoors or outdoors on the pier where you can watch the cruise ships leave the port.

2 lbs of Shrimp with Vegetables and Garlic Bread & Fried Tilapia

Things to know:
  • Open daily at 11am with free parking.
  • There are many fish market stands in the Ports O Call Village. Look for the San Pedro Fish Market which is located toward the end of the marketplace.
  • Shrimp Tray: We recommend ordering the shrimp without the shell. It's a bit more expensive but less messy to eat.
  • The average cost of a shrimp tray is $30 for 1 lbs of Medium shrimp with vegetables, potatoes and 1 loaf of garlic bread.
  • Fried fish is also a good option if the shrimp tray is too much for you.
  • If you plan on eating outdoors, note that there are birds and seagulls waiting for your yummy leftovers.
  • There are also drink stands in the marketplace serving smoothies and alcohol. Foodie favs: Pineapple and Strawberry. Prices range from $6 to $12.
  • The Shrimp Trays are now available at selected Gonzales Northgate Markets for $13.99 (or $9.99 with a coupon). Stores: 17, 21, 24 and 25. Click here for store directions. Go to the San Pedro Fish Market website to download the coupon for $4.00 off.
San Pedro Fish Market at Ports O Call Village
1190 Nagoya Way
San Pedro, CA 90731

Wisconsin: L'Etoile Restaurant, Fall Menu

Last June, I dined at L'Etoile while visiting our offices in Madison, Wisconsin (see post here). A few weeks ago, I went back with my boss Steve who inspired me to write this blog.

This time around I've gotten over my camera shyness and took out my big camera and shot away. Unfortunately, the lighting in the restaurant was pretty dim. As the night went on, it seemed the room was getting dimmer every minute.

Since Steve and I were undecided on where to eat at in Madison, I didn't make any reservations. After comparing menus from Harvest and L'Etoile, L'Etoile was clearly the winner. After walking up the stairs to their main dining room, we found we came in a few minutes early. The bar area was open for business so we decided to hang out there until the main dining room was ready.

I ended up getting a non-alcoholic drink which was like a lemonade infused with rosemary. I totally forgot the name of the drink but it was seriously good.

So finally, some photos of our meal here.

Canapé: Hickory Nut Crackers
Topped with Herbed Goat Cheese, and Hickory Nuts from Ray's Hickory Nuts

Bee Charmer Fairy Pumpkin-Curry Soup - $10.50
With King Crab in Cilantro-Coconut Beurre Monte

Pan-Roasted Silver River Whey-fed Chicken - $35
With Prsley Potatoes, Baby Turnips, Carrots, Willow Creek Farm Bacon Lardons, Mushrooms, Cipollini Onions, Snug Haven Spinach and Black Truffle-Cognac Jus


Fennel Pollen & Orange Scented Fluke - $34
With Roasted Harmony Valley Gold & Chioggia Beets, Braised Harmony Valley Cabbage and Fingerling Potatoes, finished with Orange-Rye Brown Butter & Grape Must

Wisconsin Artisan Cheeses - $12
Served with Toasted Honey-Walnut Bread and Future Fruit Cox Orange Pippin & Fuji Apples

Cheeses (from right to left)
  1. Hollands' Family Farm Marieke Gouda (Cow)
  2. Bleu Mont Dairy Bandaged Cheddar Reserved (Cow)
  3. Bleu Mont Dairy Vermont Valley Tomme (C0w)

Mignardises
Homemade fiddle-faddle, chocolate-covered bacon and raspberry currant gelee

Afterthoughts: L'Etoile is essentially my favorite restaurant in Madison and can honestly say has blown away my experience at Chez Panisse. The staff and service was attentive and accommodating. I like the fact that the menu is seasonal so no matter how many times you would come here, the menu will be different even their cocktail list. My boss stated it was one of the best meals he's had and will plan on coming back more often. So will I :)

25 N Pinckney St
Madison, WI 53703-2871
608.251.0500

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Las Vegas: L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon



Last week, luck has it that Marc was traveling to Las Vegas to work at a client site, MGM Grand. This was my second trip to Las Vegas this month after coming back from Wisconsin and Chicago the week prior. Joël Robuchon was simply not on the radar since I essentially booked my flight the night before.

On my last night in Las Vegas (last Sunday), we initially had plans to have dinner at Rao's in Caesar's Palace. Unfortunately, Marc was unable to make it due to work issues so I had to dine alone. Soon I realized that I couldn't eat Italian food all by myself so I walked down to the casino floor to scope out my options.

1. Dining alone.
2. Not in a rush for time.
3. The meal needs to be memorable.

Answer: Joël Robuchon

Lady luck was on my side when I went to L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon as they were accepting walk-ins. I figured this meal can be a precursor to booking a reservation at its much bigger restaurant, Joel Robuchon at the Mansion, during my birthday weekend next March.


In 2003, Joël Robuchon ("Mr. Chef of the Century") introduced a new concept of dining. During his travels to Asia, specifically Japan, Robuchon was facinated by the traditional way sushi was served at counter style by master chefs.

From its elegant presentation of each order to the wonderful flavors and ambiance of a sushi bar, thus L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon was born.


The concept was a kitchen opened on a circular bar with 36 seats allowing diners to follow the service and watch the succession of dishes as well as composing their own meal based on their appetite.

The menu consists of classic French dishes in small, tapas-style portions. The staff is attentive yet casual. The service adheres to its highest standards, nothing less than what you'll find at a 3-star restaurant. High-quality cuisine in a friendly, unpretentious environment (Source: Joël Robuchon).


The kitchen at L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Las Vegas is manned by Executive Chef, Steve Benjamin, whom also worked the kitchen at its Paris location (seen above on the left).

As soon as you are seated, you are given several menus to customize your meal. I chose the Menu Decouverte (aka Discovery Menu). It's a 9-course prix fixe menu, but you can add additional courses from its la carte menu. Click here for an enlarged version.


I started off with cocktails rather than a wine pairing at each course.

From top to bottom:
  • Framboise Mojito - $15
  • El Dolche - $15
  • Glass of Banylus - $22

House made pain de epi with savory butter (not pictured)


L'Amuse-Bouche
Foie gras parfait with port wine and parmesan foam


Le Crabe Royal
King crab on a turnip disc with a sweet and sour sauce


La Saint-Jacques
Sea scallop cooked in the shell with chive oil


La Cebette
White onion tart with smoked bacon and grilled mushrooms


Le Foie Gras
Duck foie gras with confit quince and yuzu


La Sole
Dover sole filet, baby leek with ginger


Add on: Le Burger - $32.00
Beef and foie gras burgers with caramelized bell peppers


La Caille
Foie gras stuffed free-range quail with truffled-mashed potatoes


Le Pamplemousse
Grapefruit infused with Prosecco, lychee sorbet


L'Arabica
Chocolate cake cremeux layered with espresso ice cream and roasted almonds

After thoughts: I was pleasantly surprised and amazed with the meal. The Le Burgers (beef & foie gras burgers) were one of the highlights of the meal as well as the desserts. Simple ingredients and not too flashy. Who would have thought grapefruit would be delicious as a dessert.

I think the best part of the whole experience was the service. My server Eric S. was friendly and very accommodating by anticipating my every request. Decisions were made easy and when I wasn't sure what cocktails or wines to pair, he was there to guide me.

At the end, Chef Steve Benjamin was kind enough to sign my menu in front of me (ok, not exactly in front of me) but I can clearly see him spending the time signing it and handing it to me in person which was a nice touch to memorable evening.

It was probably the first time I've seen an Executive Chef standing before me more than once. Ok, maybe the VIPs sitting next to me helped. But still, it was a memorable experience and I would definitely come back. Maybe sooner than later since we're spending the Christmas holiday in...Vegas!

Now the question is, how do we get VIP status? :)

Things to know:
  • Average tasting menus start at $75 while the menu decorverte is $148. The worthwhile option: go with the Menu Decorverte.
  • In a rush? The L'Unique menu is a 3-course menu for $39 and served within 15 minutes. Available daily until 6:45pm.
  • Feeling lucky and don't like what you see on the Menu Decorverte? Create your own from the Ala Carte menu. Note: Le Burger costs $32 which includes two burgers and fries.
  • The restaurant has a large array of wine selections by the glass. Don't be afraid to ask.
  • Reservations are highly recommended for the high season (e.g. fight nights, holidays, etc). Show up early to guarantee a seat.
  • The restaurant is open daily from 5:30pm to 10:30pm Sun-Thur and 5:00pm to 10:30pm Fri-Sat.
  • Don't rely on the online reservation system. It may show a packed house but it may not be. Call the Concierge desk or walk over to the restaurant.
  • The restaurant is located near the KA Theatre, across from Wolfgang Puck's Bar & Grill at the MGM Grand. Walk toward the High Limit Slots section and Nobhill Tavern.
L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon
3799 Las Vegas Blvd S
Las Vegas, NV 89109
702.891.7358

Website: http://www.joel-robuchon.com/