green tomato, juniper
herbs and flowers, shrimp
baerii caviar, pistachio, beer
waffle, cheddar, mushroom
melon, mustard
golden whitefish roe, venison, potato
crab, tomato, rose, hip
razor clam, beet, horseradish
oyster, broccoli, celery
whole wheat batard
scallop, bitter greens, miso
sourdough croissant
turbot, shallot
celeriac, truffle
foie gras, black current, apple, peanut
lamb en croute, huckleberry, burnt onion
grape, milk, pine
licorice, blueberry
Earlier this year, chef Ronny Emborg moved from Copenhagen to New York take the helm as Executive chef at Atera. Normally after a chef departure I would wait a year for the chef to settle in but I took a leap of faith based on Emborg's pedigree (he spent some time at el Bulli under Ferran Adria, Mugaritz, and Geranium in Copenhagen). Copenhagen is a force to be reckon with so you really can't go wrong with a Danish chef. Besides, Emborg was able to retain Atera's two Michelin stars so he's off to a great start.
So on to the tasting menu...
I can sense a playfulness in his dishes but it's all his own. I'm glad the gimmicks were kept to a minimum and the local ingredients shined through and through. The plating was beautiful which is expected from the Danish chef. The dish that really stood out for me was the second dish of baerii caviar, pistachio, and beer. The flavor profile reminded me of the Oysters & Pearls dish from the French Laundry but this dish was very simple but exquisite. My second choice would be the turbot and shallot. I don't recall having turbot in past meals which I thoroughly enjoyed (what's in that foam!).
The wait staff were quick to take away dishes and flatware like ninjas. It wasn't abrasive nor stiff. Actually, the choice of music playing in the background really made the restaurant lively. When I arrived early, I was escorted to the basement bar to have a cocktail but I opted for a beer. Again, the staff was talkative when I had questions and there wasn't a sense of pretentiousness which I hate about U.S. restaurants.
Overall, this nondescript restaurant in Tribeca exceeded my expectations. I liked the fact that at the end of the meal I was given a copy of the menu plus a book of recipes from the staff. I look forward to the next volume of recipes.
Atera
77 Worth St, New York, NY 10013
212.226.1444