London: Kitchen Table @ Bubbledogs

Pig

Cod

Chicken

Crispy chicken skin, rosemary mascarpone, bacon jam

Scallop

Crab

Sea Trout

Artichoke

Beef

Duck

Duck

Vacherin

Mango

Blood Orange

Caramel

Chocolate

Kitchen Table is a 19-seat restaurant hidden in the back of Bubbledogs, a bar that serves gourmet hot dogs and champagne. The kitchen counter format resembles Brooklyn Fare in New York minus the aggressive attitude. I didn't have a problem reserving seats as I planned my food itinerary a few months in advance. There are two seatings per night and the menu is written on a chalkboard with a single noun that best represents the main ingredient of the dish. While food allergies are accommodated, this is not a place for individuals who are "picky eaters" or lack worldly palates.

I think it's refreshing to see chefs prepare dishes and explain it while serving it to its guests. Too many times I've experienced the "angry chef" which makes these interactions awkward. Chef James Knappett and sommelier Sandia Chang are a husband-and-wife team who created the Kitchen Table with a comfortable feel while being reasonable priced. Surprisingly, Sandia and Hubs are both Cal Poly Pomona alumnus. Go Broncos!

Overall, I thought the dining experience was pleasant. I liked the fact that Chef Knappett does his best not to make the same dish twice. He also mentioned that he doesn't always know how the dish will come out until it's served. It's gutsy but if you're that good, it doesn't matter. With one Michelin star on his belt, it's upward bounds from here. I hope a cookbook is in the works because I seriously need that recipe for the mango dessert.

Kitchen Table
70 Charlotte Street
London, W1T 4QG, UK
+44 20 7637 7770
http://www.kitchentablelondon.co.uk

New York: Eleven Madison Park

Cheddar

savory black and white cookie with apple

Corn

custard with tuna and caviar

Cucumber

marinated with lemon and melon

Tomato

tea with lemon thyme

salad with strawberries with basil

Beef

pastrami with peppers, rye, mustard, and old-fashioned cherry soda

Bread

house baked bread, unsalted butter with duck fat, unsalted butter

Foie Gras

marinated with peaches, ginger, and bitter almond

Lobster

boil with clams, shrimp, and beans

Sunflower

braised with sunchokes and sunflower seeds

Duck

roasted with raspberries, blueberries, and mulberries

Fresh Cheese

pretzel, raspberry mustard, and green tomatoes

Whey

sorbet with caramelized milk and cherries

Apricot

grill with lemon thyme ice cream and honey

Pretzel

chocolate covered with sea salt

Chocolate

sweet black and white cookie with caramel

Espresso

Eau de Vie

apple brandy

Kitchen Tour

Shaved ice

EMP House made granola

Last week I had the opportunity to spend a week in New York. My evenings were spent in Brooklyn but I was able to snag a lunch reservation at Eleven Madison Park. I thought the courses were simple (in a good way) and it paid homage to New York favorites such as a pastrami sandwich. To me, a great restaurant invokes childhood memories and EMP did just that with their Cheese course. The course was whimsical as everything was presented inside a picnic basket. One element included one of my favorite snacks, a pretzel. I love pretzels, period. It reminded me of the Hot Sam pretzels that I craved as a kid in the mid 80s. I was tempted to ask for another pretzel to finish all of the cheese. So good. 

Bread service: I still think Joel Robuchon reigns supreme on that front but EMP is up there along with Guy Savoy. Too bad Alinea axed their bread service. It was good too.

Spoiler alert: After I left the restaurant, another surprise awaited outside with a local street vendor. Every diner was presented with a strawberry cream popsicle treat to beat the summer heat. 

Parting gift: I think every restaurant who offers a tasting menu of $200+ is obligated to give its patrons a parting gift. Whether it be a loaf of bread (a la Joel Robuchon) or TFL shortbread cookies, EMP does it right with granola that's as addictive as oxycodone. 

Overall, I had a better experience here than at the French Laundry. I didn't feel over stuffed and spending a few minutes in the kitchen was a nice touch to end my afternoon. Would I come back? Maybe for their fall menu. Otherwise, I don't feel the urge to come back any time soon to make up for any missteps as I didn't uncover anything.